Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city is no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always characterized its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their children are unwilling to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these narratives and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
